turnip garden dashi

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turnip garden dashiCustard, katsuobushi, and broth—this incredibly intense and entirely vegetal array draws its umami character from smoking and drying the vegetables and braising the lovage leaves.

  • Yield: 4 Servings


  • 300 grams | 1 cup kosher salt
  • 220 grams | 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
  • 230 grams | 1 cup tamari
  • 3 | large carrots
  • 180 grams | 1 ½ cups diced carrots
  • 200 grams | 1 ½ cups diced leeks
  • 200 grams | 1 ½ cups diced turnips
  • 75 grams | 2.5 ounces dried kombu
  • 50 grams | 2 ounces dried matsutake mushrooms
  • 1 .8 kilograms | 8 cups water
  • white soy sauce
  • sel gris
  • 700 grams | 5 cups diced turnips
  • 1 .5 kilograms | 6 ⅓ cups water
  • 325 grams | 1 ⅓ cups eggs
  • 8 grams | 1 ½ teaspoons white soy sauce
  • kosher salt
How to Make It
  1. FOR THE CARROT KATSUOBUSHI: Mix together the kosher salt, brown sugar, and tamari in a bowl to create a paste. Coat the carrots with the paste, place in an airtight container, and cure at room temperature for 36 hours. Gently rinse the cure from the carrots without disturbing the color that has been achieved through the curing process.
  2. Hot smoke the carrots at 140°F (60°C) for 1 hour. Transfer the smoked carrots to a dehydrator tray and dehydrate at 130°F (54°C) for 12 hours, until dry but still pliable. Using a bonito shaver, shave the carrots lengthwise into thin strips. Refrigerate the strips in an airtight container.
  3. FOR THE SMOKED VEGETABLE DASHI: Cold smoke the carrots, leeks, and turnips for 30 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a large pot and add the kombu, mushrooms, and water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn down the heat and steep at 140°F (60°C) for 2 hours. Prepare an ice bath. Strain the dashi through a very fine cloth filter into a bowl and season with the white soy and sel gris. Nest the bowl in the ice bath to cool the dashi.
  4. FOR THE TURNIP CHAWANMUSHI: Combine the turnips and water in a large pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer at 160°F (71°C) for 2 hours. Strain through a very fine cloth filter and let cool to 100°F (38°C). Measure 975 grams (4 cups) of the broth and pour into a blender. Add the eggs and mix on low speed just until incorporated. Strain the egg base through a chinois into a pitcher. Season the base with the white soy and salt until flavorful.
  5. Fill each of 4 oven-safe service vessels with 150 grams (⅔ cup) of the chawanmushi base. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and put into a steam oven set at 200°F (95°C) for 8 to 12 minutes, until the tops of the custards appear slightly set. Let cool in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
  6. FOR THE BRAISED LOVAGE AND TURNIP LEAVES: Combine the oil and shallots in a rondeau over medium heat and sweat the shallots for 4 minutes, until translucent. Add the lovage and turnip leaves and heat until they begin to wilt, then deglaze the pan with the radish juice and cook until the cooking liquid has evaporated. Season with sel gris, transfer to In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, and sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves. Dress the peas with the lemon vinaigrette and season with Maldon salt.

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